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CHOOSING DIAMONDS

THE 5 C'S  |  CUT  |  CLARITY  |  COLOUR  |  CARAT WEIGHTCONFLICT FREEDIAMOND SHAPESCERTIFICATION

The 5 C’s to consider when buying a diamond are - cut, clarity, colour, carat weight and conflict free.

The cut, clarity, colour and carat weight determine the value of a diamond. The final factor, which is equally important, is whether that diamond has been ethically sourced.

At first glance, two diamonds may be of equal size, but after considering the 5c's, you will see how they may in fact have very different values.

Cut: The quality of cut determines a diamond’s brilliance. It is the skill of the cutter that unlocks the natural beauty. Most diamonds are cut with a full 58 facets and it is important that these are cut to precise angles. A diamond that is cut well will reflect light from one facet to another and then back out through the top of the diamond. Only well cut diamonds will really sparkle.

Clarity: Most diamonds contain tiny marks, known as inclusions, which make each stone unique, like a finger print. The inclusions don't necessarily weaken the stone and when they don't interfere with the passage of light they do not affect its beauty. The fewer and smaller the inclusions, the more valuable a diamond will be.

The grading starts at F which is a completely flawless and extremely rare diamond. The GIA clarity scale chart below shows the different grades of diamond clarity. For grades F to SI, a diamond's clarity grade has an impact on the diamond's value, not on the unmagnified diamond's appearance.

Diamond Occasion - Grading 1
IF
Internally flawless
  No internal flaws, but some surface flaws. Very rare.
Diamond Occasion - Grading 2
VVS1- VVS2
Very Very
Slightly Included
  Minute inclusions very difficult to detect under 10x magnification by a trained gemmologist. VVS1 is slightly cleaner than VVS2.
Diamond Occasion - Grading 3
VS1-VS2
Very Slightly
Included
  Minor inclusions only visible under 10x magnification. VS1 is slightly cleaner than VS2.
Diamond Occasion - Grading 4
SI1-SI2
Slightly Included
  Inclusions easy to see under 10x magnification but usually not visible with the naked eye. SI1 is slightly cleaner than SI2.
Diamond Occasion - Grading 5
I1-I2-I3
Included
  Inclusions visible with the naked eye.

Colour: The colour grading for white diamonds starts from completely colourless, which is the most expensive, through to a faint yellow colour. Diamonds graded D to F are the rarest and most expensive, whereas the ones graded G to J are seemingly colourless to the untrained eye.

The diamonds with grades K to Z are more noticeably yellower, but the choice always depends on the customer’s preference.

We will always find the diamond to suit but as a rule, we recommend and work with diamonds graded from H upward, that are “near colourless” or “colourless”.

Diamond Occasion

Also rare and very valuable, are diamonds with a strong pure colour that are called "fancies" such as the pink diamonds as well as beautiful cognac and champagne coloured diamonds.

Carat Weight: A diamond’s weight is one measure by which to calculate it’s value.

Diamond weight is measured in carat and each carat is divided into 100 points. A carat is equal to 0.20 of a gram or one-fifth.

Conflict Free: Each year around US$12 billion of rough diamonds are mined from around the globe. These come from many countries including those in Africa as well as Russia, Australia and Canada. The diamonds are cut, polished and sold in a retail market worth nearly US$70 billion.  The flow of transactions taking the diamonds from mine to market is known as 'the diamond industry pipeline’.  Australia is one of the world’s largest producers of rough diamonds and in 2006-07, our exports of rough diamonds were $565 million.

During the 1990s, it became apparent that the industry pipeline was contaminated by diamonds—known as ‘conflict diamonds’—that had been sold to finance African rebel movements.   These groups exploited the nature of the diamond trade to finance their wars against legitimate governments and great hardship and misfortune was brought upon some of Africa’s diamond-rich, but undeveloped, countries.  In response, the United Nations backed Kimberley Process Certification Scheme was established to eradicate the trade in conflict diamonds.

As part of the Kimberly Process, the diamond industry agreed to a system of warranties requiring that those in the diamond industry only buy diamonds from companies that provide guarantees that their diamonds do not come from conflict sources. It is now widely accepted that less than 1% of all diamonds come from conflict sources and this has been largely through the effective implementation of these controls.  As a consumer, you should expect jewellers to provide you with documentary evidence to prove that any diamond you buy is guaranteed to be conflict-free.  Please make sure that you make this enquiry whenever you purchase diamonds. 

We feel very strongly about our personal responsibility to assist and support the processes that ensure our diamonds come from ethical sources and that we do not inadvertently support any trade in conflict diamonds.

For more information please visit http://www.dfat.gov.au/publications/stats-pubs/downloads/diamond.pdf


Diamond Shapes: From traditional round brilliant cuts to more interesting marquise, oval, heart shapes…these days, diamonds come in all shapes imaginable and diamond cutters are still experimenting to discover more.

A diamond cutter's skill will produce a diamond of the greatest size with the fewest flaws and the most brilliance from the rough stone.

ROUND
  This shape has set the traditional standard for all diamond shapes. Over 75% of the diamonds sold today are Round Brilliant. Its 58-facet cut is calibrated to achieve the maximum in fire and brilliance.
PRINCESS
  This is a square rectangular shape with many facets. A relatively new cut that often finds its way into solitaire engagement rings. It is especially attractive with longer fingers.
EMERALD
  This is a rectangular shape with cut corners. Inclusions and inferior colour can be more pronounced in this particular cut so clarity and colour should be looked at carefully and time taken when a choice is made.
ASSCHER
  It is a stepped square cut, often called the "square emerald cut" and like an emerald cut, the Asscher has cropped corners.
MARQUISE
  This shape is elongated with pointed ends. It is beautiful as a solitaire or when matched with smaller complementary diamonds.
OVAL
  This is a symmetrical design which is even and appeals to many small handed women as it seems to elongate hands and fingers.
RADIANT
  This is a square or rectangular shape. The elegance of the emerald cut and the brilliance of the round shape marks this cut. 70 facets maximize the effect of it's colour refraction.
PEAR
  This cut combines the best of the oval and marquise shapes. It is the hybrid shape that looks like a sparkling teardrop. It beautifully compliments the average size hand and fingers and is gorgeous for pendants and earrings.
HEART
  A pear shaped diamond with a cleft on the top. The extraordinary skill of the cutter determines the beauty of this cut.
CUSHION
  Late 19th and early 20th style antique type shape. Remnants of the "Old Mine Cut", a deep cut with large facets.
TRILLIANT
  The main and outstanding feature of this diamond is its unique triangle form. The trilliant cut is created with equal sides and usually contains 50 facets.

Diamond Certification:  The diamonds that we sell are certified by GIA, IGI, Auscert and HRD.



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